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Spring was at its full and a trip to the more remote parts of Greece, was in schedule. Agrafa and Argithea mountain range, well secluded in the mountains of central Greece, seemed to be the perfect destination.
The initial plan was to hit two new rivers this weekend. Petriliotiko and Agrafiotis. Two rivers that we hadn't done yet, due to their significant distance from Athens, their short paddling period and their overall seriousness.
Saddly, with Pavlos's last minute cancellation and the rest of the team late departure, we had to change the schedule, as Petriliotiko demanded a long shuttle.
Mornos would be our first day's alternative, as it would be a good warm up before Agrafiotis and a chance for the "lazy" members, to spend some time "leading" the river.
Alfredos entering the "Log Rapid" in Mornos
Leaving Mornos valley, we headed back northeast towards Lamia and Karpenissi trying to drive our way further up towards Agrafa to camp for the night. But Ziakas sensitive back and Alfredos lack of sleeping time (due to working late, as he insisted...not partying, as we thought) we decided to rent a room for the night, at Agios Nikolaos, where we met Pavlos already arrived from Athens.
The road to Agrafa valley was quite longer than we expected. From Karpenissi to Krentis, is the definition of a winding road. But the morning mist coming up the ravines rewarded us with a magnifiscent view! Read more in our on the road report.
The Turkish bridge below Trovato would be our put in for the classic run to Karvasaras.
After concluding all the various details of shuttling, leaving the second jeep before the muddy part of the dirt road, by the time we started paddling it was already noon. The weather was splendid. Blue skies and clear water, promised an unforgetable run - a first for us - at this beautiful river.
The first canyon, besides the tricky entrance rapid, proved to be no harder than class III, with just a couple of stretches that required scouting. The road was quite close, not high above the right bank and that encouraged our run through the unfamiliar surroundings. Soon we reached a right bend with a small bridge, where a small road approaches the river bank at some kind of leisure park. "The gates" and the second gorge apeared in front of us. The first rapid shouldn't be far now.
Eddy by eddy, we moved on in a class II to III stretch, boat scouting most of the difficult spots. The river turned slightly to the left and a series of small ledges leaded to the blingd right turn 50m later, which definetely needed inspection.
A protruding log, before the right bend, could only add to the difficulty, as the paddler running that tight bouldery slalom course, would have to stay on the left side of the right bend channel, having space for just one perfect boof stroke, at the small corner drop.
Nikos Mavris at the bend drop of the first rapid Photo by P.Georgilas.
The rapid is visible from the road above, at Tridendro crossing, but can only be judjed by a closer look from the river right bank. It finally proved to be a sweet rapid to run and everyone had a nice ride! The two smaller drops following the bend, until after the big boulder, were much stickier than it looked but at the end we all gathered safe and happy below.
The gorge opens and soon we reach the first of Agrafiotis highlights, a picturesque 4m waterfall droping in on the right. Photo on the right
Time to stop for a quick snack, just above Blo footbridge and back to the river, in a faster but troubleless paddling.
In a while we reach another bridge, at Epiniana crossing, where a few cars have stopped to enjoy the river. People waving cameras were asking to make some kind of trick for the photo. This was a little embarashing, but at the end we were glad to realise that even if we couldn't see it for most of our run, we were still close to civilization.
One by one we passed the somehow tricky rapid after the bridge. A staircase style stretch, confined by a tree branch on the left, demanded speed driving, that realy aroused the crowd on the bridge. Soon we were once again lost into the famous remoteness of the greek riverland.
Paddling through relative wider riverbed now, the whitewater is playful, let us try a few rock splats and spins and lots of other mystery moves. We travel fast, but the weather is getting worse and the river clouds start coming down behind us.
In a while we see the road on the left, close to the water level. A bouldery stretch is forming a significant rapid we should better check out from the shore. A wire cable that was formerly used to carry over, people and goods into a basket and a wire bridge, mark the spot of this 2nd rapid.
Dimitris Konstantinidis (Konidis) running the 2nd rapid Photo by N.Mavris.
Landmark setting is essential for route finding in this 50m long rapid. A few mast make strokes are essential to avoid stacking against one of those big boulders, like Mary found out - the wet way!
Fortunately we had a good (150m) break of calm water, where Alfredos and Dimitris managed to rescue swimming people and travelling equipment.
Around the next left bend, larks the 3rd rapid. The wide riverbed tightens up to a 4m wide rapid through two powerful holes. As we soon found out, safety boaters were once more valuable at this rapid.
Konidis at the 3rd rapid Photo by N.Mavris.
After this section the river keep running in a class II to class III stretches, while the walls around us get taller and taller. Eddy by eddy, we try to make a progress speeding up our rhythm. After a right bend, we catch a small eddy and get out to scout, as the river seems to disappear at the next left turn, 20m later. A big red boulder seem to be in the way, but there is a passage around it on the right, where the gorge wall is steep, tall and undercutted by the water pushing on.
Pavlos Georgilas approaches the "blind" entrance of the great gorge. Photo by N.Mavris.
It normally is an easy S-turn, but you can't help it raising your head to see that remarkable sight!
Water slides fall from above, the gorge wall takes all the most peculiar shapes, the rock painted dark red as the storm following us, dramatizes the colors, until they once again change with the rainbows.
At least once, while gazing up, I was pushed by the tricky current, to the undercutted wall, so gaze up but keep a safe distance.
The gorge goes on for a few kms. Our speed is fast and there are no difficult spots, so we have the chance to enjoy this magnificent gorge for a few more minutes. We could have stayed more, but the storm is now closer behind us. I can see the rain cloud getting low into the gorge, reducing its distance from us. It smells like rain!
Time to speed up now. The take out bridge shows up after a few minutes. I remind the rest that we should keep to the left, to take the small channel leading to the take out trail before the bridge.
Taking the right channel, means that you have to avoid the traction to the right concreted wall, run over a small but possibly dangerous weir and have a much more difficult climb up to the bridge.
As we reach the take out eddy, the first drops start to fall, followed by the full storm in a few seconds. Taking shelter under the bridge holds a surprise for us, in the face of a group of Austrian paddlers waiting for their shuttle too.
It came up to be one of the groups that also knew about our team and the site, so this little meeting warmed up the cold weather for us!
After the storm, we had a chance to chat for a minute and we were more glad to find out that our new friends were not new to our rivers. One of the paddlers, was in the team of Hans Metz, the pioneer of the Greek rivers.
Unforunately, the one and a half hour shuttle in front of us, left no more time for conversation. I hope to see you next year too, my friends.
The storm had mudded the dirt road close to the put in, so we were glad that we had left one of the the two 4x4 before that part. But surprise-surprise! Pavlos realised that his station wagon's Ultra Grip tyres, were good in rainy conditions only if those conditions applied to asphalt roads. The two flat tyres suggested that the same wouldn't apply to rocky dirt roads of Agrafa. Thanks of my fully equipped Terios, an air compressor and a emergency service spray, Pavlos wouldn't have to spend the night by the river, waiting for an angel from above to bring another tyre. Because we are no angels... we are mere paddlers working tomorrow!
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