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Lower Erymanthos
It was the third time in a row that I was trying to reach Erymanthos gauge keeper at the phone. At the end, the news was that the flow was super high for us mortal paddlers, so we decided to go for the lower section, which none of us had run yet. The shuttle for this part of the river, demanded two non paddling drivers – that we didn't have – or a local taxi driver (what is that?). At the end, paddling drivers Pavlos, Dimitris and Kayaker, had plenty of time, during the three hours of shuttling, to decide if the two hours of paddling was worth it.
It wasn't the same with the rest of us, happy passengers, enjoying a hot cup of tea by the fireplace, in our new friend's George house, at Elea. We did enjoy this beautiful river. From the drive, through the woods, to the put in at Vidiaki, to the clear water in the super-tight conglomerate canyon and the few technical rapids, that wouldn't worry, even those of us who hadn't been in a boat for more than a while.
The waterslide were we shouldered our boats up, to joyfully slide down again and again and the picturesque waterfall, by the end, made up for the long five hours it took us to get into the water.
Our favourite taverna stop at Levidi, for grill and wine, made it up for the tired drivers too and a nice cappuccino to go was in order, to get us back to Athens.
19 Feb 05. Mornos
Snow had melted at the elevated pass of Pavliani – so the weather man said - so we took our chances to Mornos. Snow may had melt the last few days but some more snow was falling while we were on our way up. Spyros was grinning for its worn out tyres and the funky 4x4 of its SUV, that has its own mind when it comes to decide whether it will engage or not.
Water level was fair – medium to low – and we all were keen to put in. Alfredos looked up in the sky, to decide that he wouldn't care to paddle in the middle of the snowfall that could easily go on for the rest of the day. Mary, Spyros, Konidis, Giannis and me, decided to go on and it was really worth it. Water was clean but really freezing – first time in six years of winter paddling, that even in gloves, I couldn't open my palm, frozen around the paddle shaft. Mary had a small encounter with the rocky bottom of the "Red rock rapid" at the second gorge and had to swim for a few seconds. Myself, I almost get caught on a wire fence that some "criminal" shepherd had fixed across the river, to pen in his herd. It seems we were the first paddlers to run Mornos this season, as we didn't find any human flesh or gore-tex tissue on the thorny wire mess.
Seriously speaking now, we could have a minor injury back there, along with ripping some expensive clothes, but it would have been more serious in higher flow, where untrapping the victim would not be so easy or not dangerous.
Thankfully Giannis was able to take out in the last eddy and helped Mary and me out. We obviously cut the fence off, but this happening should be a reminder to all of us paddling in Greece.
Read my comment in: River hazards. Wire Fences and other river obstacles.
27 Feb 05. "Big Water" Mornos
A big snowmelt during the last week, rised the river flow in almost perfect levels. Three pioneers of Greek kayaking: Antonis Voulgarakis, Spyros Panagopoulos and Nikos "Kayaker" Letsios, were lucky – or wise – enough, to find perfect conditions in the lower section. The water could be also ideal for a good team, in the "sporty" upper Mornos.
Kayaker was keen to come back the next day, so Konidis, Pavlos and I headed back to the familiar mountain passes of Pavliani. George would be the guest of the day, not in a paddling role, but in a supporting one – he would support us to the recovery taverna.
Rain was falling as we were approaching the mountains and if we were not anxious whether that would spoil the river; we would have much appreciated the big beautiful rainbow. The rain got harder as we reached the village of Stromi and the waterfall beside the road was roaring big and brown – the color of the flood!
The welcome section of the three initial rapids of Upper Mornos, as we saw it from the road, was a prolonged, super pushy nightmare, for really sick paddlers. No one seemed to have the nerve to get in there, so we continued to Mousounitsa bridge and the put in for the lower section.
In the way, we scouted – out of pure curiosity – Dragon's Maw, to see the rocky spur in the middle, just peaking out of the masses of water. No way to eddy out, scout or set safety down there. Cooooool!
In Mousounitsa bridge, the river widens and seems Ok. BIG but Ok. The concrete spur below the bridge was underwater, to give a short of picture for the level. In the river now, the wave trains would be great if they wouldn't crash onto the big walls, in every turn and the big holes would be great to play with, if we were not too freak out of the unusual power of the flooded river. Fortunately the gorge is not too tight and we safely negotiate the first km, until we get used to diagonal wave riding and spotting the "bad" holes in time.
The log rapid was pushy but not so difficult – you could always take the easier line to the left and the usually flat part below Sykia, was now interesting with surfs to catch and eddy fences to rip. In the second gorge though, the famous Red rock rapid was a sound class IV+ for strong paddlers with fast boats. The water was boofing over the rock, to a confusing multi-directional stopper and a probably sticky hole lurked on the left of the rock. The only problem would be safety setting. Small voices all around the bravest one, ended for the whole team to run the chicken line on the right, around the island and away from the rapid. What a glory!
15 min later we were out and in a fresh snow fall, we headed for Pavliani and a small traditional tavern, with local sheep ribs on the grill and surprisingly good wine.
At Thermopyles, an hour later, we through ourselves in the warm pools, under the waterfall, that makes wonders with tired recreational paddlers, who had it Big this time.
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